Even though La Vina always seems busy, the people behind the bar still smile as they spin around each other, handing out small plates of tortilla or octupus salad and pouring the local wine, txakoli, from a great height. (When we were too slow to take a photo, the bartender happily obliged and poured another glass just for our shot. Then drank it himself!) Spanish and foreign tourists alike elbow their way to the counter for the torta de queso, a creamy Basque cheesecake. It has no crust, just a satisfyingly burnt, caramelised outer layer. One portion comes as two slices, for 5 euros. And we finished our evening there pretty much every night. (Or we would go early and get takeaway torta to eat at home later, in case they ran out! Or some spare for the train home again. There is always an excuse for cheesecake.) It really is that good.
La Viña: 3, Calle del Treinta y Uno de Agosto, San Sebastian-Donosti
(open 10.30am-5pm then 6pm-12am; closed Monday)
(see our map of the best pintxos in San Sebastian for more ideas!)