The favourite ramen for homesick Japanese
Though my Japanese friends all sighed over missing real Tokyo ramen, they all unanimously agreed that Naritake was the best substitute in Paris. Arrive just before it opens at 7pm or be prepared to fight off a crowd of homesick Japanese kids. The tiny narrow space is filled with a mouthwatering umami smell, as their homemade miso stock simmers. The gyoza dumplings are excellent too, but most go straight for the ramen, with melting pork. Choose from a soya sauce or miso base; the latter is rich and flavourful, but can be very strong so ask for extra hot water on the side in case. Slurp noodles, drink the broth and go home satisfied, with the scent of miso still clinging to your skin!
Kotteri Ramen Naritake: 31 Rue des Petits Champs, 75001; metro Pyramides, lines 7, 14 (closed Sunday)
Where next? Japanophile? Explore the tiny Japantown within Paris, all based nearby, around rue St Anne, including Japanese supermarkets and bookshops with an extensive catalogue of manga.