An ever-evolving list of my favourite ice cream spots in Paris. A mixture of small, artisanal places and modern, crazy flavours and techniques (liquid nitrogen!) to best enjoy the last of the summer sun, wherever you are in the city.
Click on the icons on the map below for addresses. Asterisks indicate places are open late (until 11pm or midnight).
Rive droite (north):
*POZZETTO – Italian-style gelato, and my most beloved ice cream spot in Paris. Friendly service, a small selection of permanent flavours like hazelnut, chocolate, stracciatella, with fruit sorbets that change seasonally. They now have two boutiques – Pozzetto 2 also serves savoury food and a mean glass of prosecco. Take your gelato and walk around the corner to the hidden Jardin des Rosiers. Try : Pistachio – Yoghurt – Gianduja.
UNE GLACE A PARIS – Run by a Meilleur Ouvrier de France: Glacier (the Nobel equivalent for ice cream experts), this new little boutique in the Marais sells ice cream by the scoop but also the most beautiful frozen desserts for the fanciest dinner parties. A little pricier than most. Try: Apricot.
BERTHILLON – the oldest and most traditional French ice cream, custard-based. The Ile-St-Louis is covered in places selling Berthillon to take away, but the original shop also has a salon de thé if you want to sit down and relax. Elegant, small scoops of rich flavour. Try: Caramel au beurre salé.
*N2 EXTREME GELATO – Just opened this summer. The N2 gimmick is to pour liquid nitrogen onto each ice cream base as ordered, freezing it instantly and smoothly. Flavours are ordered according to country: chocolate for Belgium, sangria for Spain. Try: the Italian ‘Spritz’. Really just a perfectly frozen cocktail.
GLACES GLAZED – Definitely the prize for the most original flavours and names. Just below Montmartre for anyone hot and bothered after climbing the Sacré Coeur steps. Try: any one of their oddball combinations. Chocolate-maple syrup-cocoa nibs? Popcorn-pepper-caramel? (I had the ‘Orange Mécanique‘: orange, Campari, balsamic.)
Rive gauche (south):
RAIMO GLACIER – In a sleepy part of Paris, Raimo is perfect for a walk along the Promenade Plantée (from Bastille to Bois de Vincennes). They serve a wide range of classical French glaces, perfectly executed. Try: Violette
LE BAC A GLACES – Classic ice creams in a classy old bar. There is a little park not far away along the rue du Bac, towards the Seine. Try: Fig – Vanilla.
*GROM – A chain from Italy, but one that follows Slow Food principles and uses only seasonal fruit for their sorbets. Consistently good quality. Try: Cioccolato Extra Noir (chocolate sorbet)
LA TROPICALE – Some of the most interesting flavour combinations. Would visit every week if it were closer to my house. Try: Black sesame
*CLASICO ARGENTINO – A small chain that makes empanadas and Argentinian-style ice cream. Their yoghurt was the creamiest, most decadent version I had ever tried. If you are eating in, with company, order the ice cream tasting plate, €10 for five generous scoops. Try: Dulce de leche – Mango – Yoghurt